Spaghetti alle Vongole

Method

1. Purge the clams by soaking them in a large bowl of cold salted water (about 1/3 cup salt per gallon of water) for 20 to 30 minutes; this helps them release sand. Drain and rinse well, discarding any clams that are cracked or do not close when tapped.
2. Bring a large pot (6 to 8 quarts) of water to a boil and salt it generously.
3. Heat 1/3 cup olive oil in a very large skillet or Dutch oven (large enough to hold all the clams and pasta later) over medium heat.
4. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute until fragrant but not browned.
5. Add the clams and white wine, then increase heat to medium-high and cover the pan tightly with a lid.
6. Steam the clams for 6 to 9 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the shells open wide; discard any clams that stay closed after 9 minutes, as they are unsafe to eat.
7. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the opened clams to a bowl and cover to keep warm; leave the broth in the pan.
8. While the clams steam, cook the spaghetti in the boiling water until 2 minutes short of al dente (it will finish cooking in the clam broth).
9. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain the spaghetti.
10. Add the drained spaghetti directly to the skillet with the clam broth and toss over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, adding reserved pasta water a splash at a time, until the pasta is al dente and the sauce has reduced to lightly coat the noodles, not soupy.
11. Return the clams (and any accumulated juices) to the pan along with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the butter, tossing gently to combine and warm through, about 1 minute.
12. Season with salt to taste, remembering the clams add their own salinity, and stir in the parsley.
13. Serve immediately in warm bowls with lemon wedges on the side; provide an empty bowl at the table for discarded shells.