Stovetop Mac and Cheese

Method

1. Bring a large pot (6 to 8 quarts) of water to a boil and salt it generously.
2. Cook the macaroni according to package directions until al dente, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
3. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain the macaroni and set aside.
4. In the same pot (or a separate large saucepan), melt the butter over medium heat.
5. Whisk in the flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, whisking constantly, until it forms a smooth, pale golden paste (a roux) that smells slightly toasty but is not browned.
6. Gradually whisk in the warm milk, a little at a time, whisking out any lumps before adding more, until fully smooth.
7. Cook, whisking frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and holds a line when you drag a finger through it.
8. Reduce heat to low and stir in the salt, mustard powder, garlic powder, and cayenne if using.
9. Remove the pot from the heat and add the cheddar and Monterey Jack a handful at a time, stirring until each addition melts smoothly before adding more; working off heat prevents the cheese from turning grainy.
10. Add the drained macaroni to the cheese sauce and stir well to coat, adding reserved pasta water a couple tablespoons at a time if the sauce is too thick.
11. Season with the black pepper, taste, and adjust salt as needed.
12. Serve immediately while hot and creamy, since the sauce will thicken further as it cools.